Although I’d already visited France and Norway in 2016, it felt like I was absolutely desperate for a holiday by the time we booked to go to Poland. After scrolling through, what felt like, pages and pages of summer holiday pics on Instagram, Ewan and I decided to look for somewhere to go for an October break.
Ignorantly, I had never heard of Wroclaw, but saw cheap fares from Glasgow. We considered Prague and Budapest as well, both of which I’d still love to go to, but after doing some research on Wroclaw, and because the dates worked in best, we decided on Poland. The flights were crazy cheap too, which is always a bonus.
Our flight was in the late afternoon and after double checking my pronunciation of dziękuję (thank you) with our taxi driver, we got into our beautiful airbnb apartment! I don’t have very good photos of it but you can see better ones on airbnb here.
Once we were settled in, we went to explore the city in the rain, but not for long, as it was getting dark and we were hungry! What we did see, was lots of street art and pretty coloured buildings. Then it was time for a Mexican feast, and then some cocktails at Whiskey in the Jar.
The next morning, the sun was out for us and we started the day with a walk along the river and a trip to the cathedral. The lanes surrounding the cathedral were beautiful and from there we could follow the river into town.
On the way into town for our lunch, we passed the National museum. This building was absolutely beautiful from the outside and we decided to go in for a small fee… would not recommend. We felt very unwelcome and awkward and the art wasn’t to my taste at all. We left shortly after going in and continued on our search for food.
When we got into the city centre we picked up a map of the Wroclaw dwarfs – they are so fun! There are around 350 little dwarves all round the city and you can get a map, or an app, to try to spot as many as you can. Such a fun way to explore.
Following the map on a leaflet we’d picked up in our apartment, about the best cafes and restaurants in the city (best to base everything on food!) we found a nice cafe for lunch, then went for a walk through the park, round the main square and to Wroclaw’s market hall – an indoor market of fruit, veg, cheese, flowers and more. Next stop was crepes for pudding from FC Naleśniki.
After truly stuffing ourselves for the afternoon, we walked it off by heading for the Sky Tower for fantastic views of the city as the sun set.
We had dinner, at a traditional Polish restaurant, then went back to the apartment quite early that evening to watch Netflix and eat chocolate, as we were up early the next morning for a World War II tour.
We went on a tour called Secrets of World War II with Wroclaw Sightseeing Tours which was so interesting. The first stop was a village called Krzyzowa and a centre of reconciliation between the Poles and the Germans. There were some really moving quotes there and our tour guide was really good at explaining things that were not available in English. It was only us and one other couple from Sardinia on the tour. We had a cup of tea at the cafe and discussed Brexit and the Scottish independence referendum, in relation to friendships between countries etc. It was very interesting to hear people from other countries views, and our tour guide discussed how he had spent some time living in Scotland.
The next stop was Project Riese, a secret Nazi military facility at the foot of the Sowie mountains. It was a network of underground tunnels built by prisoners of war, most of whom died during labour due to the conditions. The project was never finished and because of lack of documentation the purpose of it is uncertain. Some believe it was for Hitler’s headquarters, other believe it was for residence.
We then went to Ksiaz castle for a lunch stop. The castle was recently made famous by the rumours of a Nazi gold train.
The final stop on the tour was Gross Rosen Memorial and Concentration Camp. We were the only people visiting the concentration camp at the time which made it particularly eerie and emotive.
When we went got back to our apartment, we relaxed with some music and some cava and got ready to go out for Thai food and drinks.
The final full day of the trip was sort of awful at the time but funny looking back! We had planned to go to the Japanese Botanical gardens and Centennial hall. We set off without breakfast, planning to get a coffee and a bite to eat on the way. It was around a 40 minute walk there and half way there it started pouring… like really, really pouring. We didn’t pass a single cafe en route, so between being soaked and starving, we were both in a pretty bad mood by the time we reached the Centennial hall. There was some sort of car show on that didn’t interest us at all but we went in for a while to seek shelter. We then decided to brave the gardens and then rush back to a Starbucks we’d seen at the other side of the road on our way there. They were absolutely beautiful but I wish we could have seen them in the sunshine! There was also a fountain and light show which would have been beautiful in the dark.
Then as we were leaving the gardens, to add to the fab day, I realised I was hypo (low blood sugar) and didn’t have any treatments on me. I felt as if I couldn’t walk a step further but we managed to find a news stall and bought me some sweets. We finally made it to Starbucks, which I would usually avoid, especially on holiday, but we were desperate! However when we got there, they didn’t seem to do any hot food which Ewan was after so we headed across to a big shopping mall. We thought we were sheltered from the rain and things were looking up, we’d get some food and do some shopping… but the cherry on top was waiting for over an hour to be served while I felt like absolute shit! And when the food arrived it was average at best. We headed home and had a lie down until I felt better.
Our last night in Wroclaw involved more food and drink of course 🙂 The meals had been ridiculously cheap all week. It was about £20 in most restaurants for the two of us for two courses and drinks. The restaurant we went to on our last night was more expensive than the others but it was well worth it – the best sushi I’ve ever had. It was at a place called Sakana Sushi. We pretty much had our own personal chef who asked us what flavours and foods we liked then made things up for us. It was delicious and Ewan even tried octopus!
I would definitely recommend Wroclaw for a short break – flights, food, drink and accommodation were all ridiculously cheap, and there’s plenty to see and do!